Friday, May 01, 2009
The Holy Man of Ethiopia
Atlas of Curiosities Part 1:
Arriving in Aksum we were brought to a man who was claimed to be the guardian of the Arc of the Covenant. Dressed in white robes, he greeted us with hesitation, as if unsure whether we were worthy of his trust. The building that housed the arc was filled with dust. Crossing its threshold, I missed a breath due to the closeness of the air. What little light that made it into the room fell in tight lines, illuminating the dust and incense smoke that the monks kept burning at all hours. The Arc was shrouded in thick cloths, not unlike burlap, a fact I learned not by sight but by hearsay, as we were unable to cross even into the room in which it was hidden.
I inquired as to the possibility of seeing it first hand on a later trip.
“It is impossible,” the monk replied.
Our disappointment was no doubt visible, because in moment following the monk offered us proof of the Arc’s existence.
“If you require proof,” he said, “I can show you its effect.”
We followed him a mile or more out of town, where we were brought to a small wooden building with a sunny exterior. Upon entering we found it to be filled with volumes, scrolls, and manuscripts of enormous size.
Convincing the site’s caretaker to pose for a portrait, we were told, “The Arc has caused an increase in the size of books, papers, and all other written things. Here is your evidence.”